Three Generations of Smith Family Cooking
James and Bill Smith were Pacific natives who returned to the area in the early 1930s after several years working in St. Louis. They identified a need for a good roadhouse along the still-young Route 66 alignment east of town and convinced their father to let them cut red cedar timber from the family farm to build it. Construction began in 1933 and the inn opened to the public on a Friday night in spring 1934 with a menu of family-style fried chicken, country ham, fried catfish, and pan-fried steak, all served at long communal tables with bowls of mashed potatoes, gravy, biscuits, and seasonal vegetables passed family-style. The price was sixty-five cents per adult, twenty cents per child.
The roadhouse format proved enormously popular through the 1930s and 1940s, surviving the Depression because the prices were so reasonable and World War II by emphasizing the family-style approach when meat rationing limited what other restaurants could offer. James and Bill ran the business until the late 1950s, when James's son Howard took over. Howard added the bar in front, expanded the dining room, and ran the inn through the late 1980s. His son Ginger, the third-generation owner, modernized the kitchen but otherwise kept everything as his grandfather had built it.
When Ginger closed the doors in 2005 he genuinely meant it to be temporary, a six-month break while he considered a remodel. But health issues kept the doors closed, and by 2008 the building was on the demolition list. The Pacific Historical Society and the Missouri Route 66 Association launched a save-the-Red-Cedar campaign that ran for five years before the city acquired the property in 2013. The museum opened the following year. Ginger Smith attended the dedication in his original chef's apron.
